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Plastic sheathing and masking tape was not available at the end of the painting project for whatever reason, I have no idea, but you have a Paint Brush that if not cared for will eventually dry up. Last solution that works well, is to take a sopping wet rag, wrapping the Paint Brush up like that burrito you missed wrapping up earlier. This will buy you some time until either you use the paint brush again, or you can properly clean it.
Water-thinned rubber-latex paint is already an old reliable, though it is only about 10 years old. It accounts for a big percentage of all paint sold and is still the most widely available of the easy-to-use finishes. One new type is a combination vinyl-rubber paint that is said to do a better job on interiors than either vinyl or rubber alone because it dries faster, lasts longer and has less sheen.
Plaster. New dry plaster in good condition, which is to be finished with a paint other than water paint, should be given a coat of primer-sealer and allowed to dry thoroughly before being inspected for uniformity of appearance. Variations in gloss and color differences in the case of tinted primers indicate whether or not the whole surface has been completely sealed. If not, a second coat of primer-sealer should be applied. If only a few "suction spots" are apparent, a second coat over these areas may be sufficient.
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First consider the size of the painting. The more impressive the subject, the higher the emotions it appeals to, the bigger it is. Religious, mythological paintings are often huge - their massive energy makes you shiver. It is pretty understandable with figurative paintings like Rafael's "The Sistine Madonna", and more subtle with color field paintings of Mark Rothko. People are often overwhelmed with religious tremor in the presence of his artwork, and the size factors in. Also, the subject often calls for larger canvases - battle scenes need space and cannot be fitted into a smaller painting, while some subjects will get lost unless depicted in a smaller size.
Step three: go online and study the basics of shadow and light. It's a visual thing, and too complicated to talk about here. But once you see it, it'll come to you quickly. Simply Google "shadow and light in painting" and the basics will come up. Once you know these rules, you can apply it to any shape, any form, any painting. And it'll make you keenly aware of shadow and light on virtually any object on earth. It's what makes a painting three- dimensional and expensive looking. You can also buy art books on shadow and light at any bookstore. But make sure you sit down for a couple of hours and study it. It will come quickly to you, I promise.
Selecting a Shop. You should always get quotes from at least 2-3 different shops near you. This will give you a chance to not only compare prices, but to also check out the quality of work each shop has done. Ask to see cars they've just painted. Look for orange peel or excessive overspray. Do they mostly do insurance work or do they paint entire cars also? What types of cars are they working on? A shop that sprays nothing but old beaters probably doesn't inspire as much confidence as one that does insurance work for the local Lexus or Mercedes dealer.
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